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Fire Safety – What you should really know
Monday, September 20th, 2010 | Author:

The National Fire Prevention Association has designated October as Fire Prevention Month. In many parts of the country, October begins the “heating season” – when fires are more common than during the rest of the year. October is also the month ushering in the holiday season (counting Halloween), and the holidays themselves are a season of increased fire risk. For instance, more residential fires occur on Thanksgiving Day, than on any other single day of the year – more than double the daily average!

Candles are always beautiful, and they are especially abundant during the holiday season. The top five days for home candle fires are: Christmas, Christmas Eve, New Year’s Day, Halloween and December 23rd. During 2003-2007, U.S. fire departments responded to an average of 15,260 home fires started by candles per year. These fires caused an annual average of 166 deaths, 1,289 injuries, and $450 million in direct property damage. Candles caused 4% of reported home fires, 6% of home fire deaths, 10% of home fire injuries, and 7% of direct property damage during this period. We all love the beauty of candles, but it is important to be careful!

So, as we get ready to enter this season, it is very important to keep safety in mind.

The National Fire Prevention Association recommends:

Cooking/Kitchen Safety:

• Always stay in the kitchen when cooking. If you must leave the kitchen for any reason, turn off the stovetop.
• No matter how you are cooking, check the food regularly. Use a timer to remind you to check the food.
• Wear short, close-fitting sleeves when cooking. Loose clothing can easily catch fire.
• Never use water to extinguish a cooking fire.
• If oil starts to boil, remove it from the heat source. Simply lowering the heat will not reduce the temperature fast enough.
• Be careful not to overfill pots with oil. You need room in the pan to add food. Overflowing oil can easily catch fire. If oil catches fire, use an oven mitt to carefully slide a lid over the pan to smother the fire.
• If oil has overflowed and is burning, get everyone out of the house and call the fire department from outside.
• Keep towels, bags, plastic, and food packaging away from flame and heat.
• Never cook when under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or medication.

Candle Safety:
• Always keep a burning candle within sight – never leave it unattended.
• Never burn a candle near anything that can catch fire.
• Always use a candleholder specifically designed for candles and place on a stable, heat-resistant surface.
• Make sure a candle is completely extinguished and is no longer glowing before leaving it.
• Never use a candle as a night light.

Christmas Decoration Safety:
• When decorating, be sure to use only lights rated for indoor use.
• Replace any lights that have worn, frayed, or broken cords.

• Always unplug Christmas tree lights before leaving the home or going to bed.
• Keep live trees moist by watering daily. Do not purchase a tree that is dry.
• Make sure the tree is at least three feet away from any heat source.
• Safely dispose of the tree when it begins dropping needles – dried out trees are highly flammable.
• Make sure artificial trees are fire retardant.
• Place the tree near an outlet to avoid running long extension cords.
• Do not burn a Christmas tree in a fireplace. They are practically explosive.

General Fire Safety:
• Install smoke alarms and test them once a month (pick a day, such as the first of each month).
• Change the batteries regularly – many experts recommend changing your smoke alarm batteries twice a year – when you change your clocks for Daylight Saving Time, and back.
• Have a dry or foam fire extinguisher in your kitchen. Check the expiration date to be sure it is current.
• Have an evacuation plan in case of a fire.
Practice the plan.

By knowing and using good safety practices, we can help to ensure that everyone has a joyous and safety holiday season.

In the event a fire should occur, it is important for property owners to know what to do, what not to do, and who to contact once it is extinguished. PuroClean, known as The Paramedics of Property Damage™, is a professional mitigation company specializing in property remediation after a home or commercial structure is damaged by fire and
smoke. Fire, along with the resulting smoke and soot, can rapidly harm household items – even after the fire has been extinguished. It is imperative to seek help immediately from a professional restoration company such as PuroClean to prevent further damage.

Regardless of the circumstances – dealing with fire/ smoke damage, water damage, or mold remediation – call your local PuroClean office. For all property damage situations, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional technicians who provide
the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.

written by

Will Southcombe

Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator

Category: fire  | Tags:  | Leave a Comment
EPA’s Lead-Safe Renovation, Repair, and Painting (RRP) Rules
Friday, September 03rd, 2010 | Author:

Lead based paint (LBP) is a recognized health hazard. Such paints were the “standard” until the 1950’s when they began to be replaced by newer, latex paints. The health risks of LBP became better recognized, and the use of LBP was banned for residential use in 1978. However, the EPA and HUD estimate that about 83 percent of homes built in the U.S. prior to 1978 may still contain LBP.

In April 2010 a host of new training, certification and work practice requirements, specified by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA), “Lead-Based Paint Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) Program” went into effect. As of that date, businesses involved in restoration, mitigation, renovation, etc., must apply for and receive EPA certification to disturb paint as part of their work whenever they are in pre-1978 homes or child-occupied facilities. In addition, all of these jobs must be supervised by EPA-certified renovators; individuals who have successfully completed an EPA-accredited, full-day training course. All workers on such a job site must be properly trained and equipped to follow the RRP Program’s lead-safe work practices when performing their assigned tasks.

Renovation is broadly defined as any activity that disturbs painted surfaces and includes most repair, remodeling and maintenance activities, including window replacement, as well as emergency services following damage caused by water or fire. Because the term “renovation” is defined so broadly, many Contractors who are not generally considered “Renovators,” as that term is commonly used, are considered to be “Renovators” under the RRP Program and must follow the rule’s requirements.

Under EPA’s RRP Program, both businesses and supervisors who perform (or direct other workers to perform) renovations must be certified by EPA. The certified construction firm is required to ensure (1) that all individuals performing activities that disturb painted surfaces on behalf of the firm are either certified Renovators or have been trained by a certified Renovator; (2) that a certified Renovator is assigned to each renovation project; (3) that the program’s recordkeeping requirements are met; and (4) that the pre-renovation educational materials are properly distributed (see below).

To become a certified Renovator, an individual worker must successfully complete an eight-hour initial Renovator training course offered by an accredited training provider. The course completion certificate serves as proof of certification. The certified Renovator is required to ensure that the renovation is performed in accordance with the work practice standards of the RRP Program. These requirements include pre-work testing to ascertain whether there is LBP present. If there is, then the requirements specify the use of warning signs and work area containment, the proper use of necessary Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), the restriction or prohibition of certain practices (e.g., high heat gun, torch, power sanding), proper handling of all waste materials, cleaning and specific, post-renovation cleaning verification. EPA’s rule does not require everyone involved in performing a regulated renovation project to receive training from an accredited training provider. The rule allows firms to use other workers to perform renovation activities, as long as they receive on-the-job training (OJT) in work practices from a certified Renovator.

In addition to specifying safe work practices and procedures, the EPA RRP Program also mandates that all businesses that perform mitigation/ restoration, renovation, repairs and painting jobs in pre-1978 housing and child-occupied facilities must, before beginning work, provide owners, tenants and child-care facilities with a copy of EPA’s lead hazard information pamphlet, Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers, and Schools. A copy of this pamphlet is available at: http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/
renovaterightbrochure.pdf.

Contractors must document compliance with this requirement using an EPA-approved form. This pamphlet outlines some of the potential  hazards that lead paint can pose to individuals, especially children.

In the case of an emergency situation (water damage, fire, etc.) there are a few exemptions from some of the rules. These exemptions focus mostly on the homeowner/occupant-educational requirements (the Renovate Right pamphlet). There are no exemptions from pre-work testing, safe work practices, cleaning requirements, etc. They also, of course, do not exempt a business from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) Duty of Care: the responsibility of every business to ensure a safe work environment for its employees.

Be assured: All PuroClean businesses are in full compliance with the Environmental Protection Agency, Renovation, Repair, and Painting Rules, and all other regulations and laws. To ensure your peace of mind in all circumstances, with LBP or not; and to ensure full compliance with all EPA, OSHA and other regulations, and regardless of the circumstances — dealing with water damage, smoke/fire damage, mold remediation or biohazard mitigation — call your local PuroClean office, the Paramedics of Property Damage™. For all property damage situations, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional Technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.

written by

Will Southcombe

Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator

Category: Biohazard, Restoration  | Leave a Comment
Mold in Homes – Best way to Remove and what to use
Tuesday, August 24th, 2010 | Author:

Mold continues to be in the news, somewhere in the nation, on a daily basis. Mold spores are, literally, everywhere and usually cause no concern. However, when the conditions are right, mold can begin to grow, and if that occurs inside of a home or other structure, it is always a concern and can be a real problem.

The molds that cause problems in homes need just three things to grow:
Food – Anything that used to be alive (wood, cardboard, paper, wool, silk, leather, etc.).
Temperature - These molds thrive in the range of68°F to 86°F (the same range we typically keepour homes).
Water – Very little is needed. In fact, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) indicatesthat indoor humidity above 60% is sufficient to allow
mold to develop.

Since our homes normally contain a lot of potential mold “food,” and are normally kept at a temperatureconducive to mold growth, all that is missing is water.

Water is also the most likely cause of damage to property across the nation. It includes everything from overflowing sinks, to leaky or broken pipes/hoses, to drain or sewer back-ups, to over-ground water from heavy rains or river/coastal flooding. If the water is in contact with any form of dirt (remember, flood waters certainly contain lots of “dirt”), then the growth can occur even more quickly since dirt always includes
organic material – “mold food.”

In all cases, water damage must be remediated quickly and thoroughly or it will result in mold growth. Complete drying, back to normal conditions, is very important since any excess moisture will result in mold growth.

Mold is often seen as obvious “growth” or even “discoloration” on materials like paper or wood. Colors can range from white to orange and from green to brown and black, and it gives off the well-known “musty/moldy” smell.

According to the Center for Disease Control (CDC),” The Institute of Medicine (IOM) found there was sufficient evidence to link indoor exposure to mold with upper respiratory tract symptoms, coughing, and wheezing in otherwise healthy people. The IOM also found limited or suggestive evidence linking indoor mold exposure and respiratory illness in otherwise healthy children.”

The CDC recommends that all molds found in the indoor environment be eliminated, adding, “Generally, it is not necessary to identify the species of mold growing in a residence, and the CDC does not recommend routine sampling for molds.” Since all molds have the potential to cause allergic or allergic-like symptoms in people, especially highly susceptible individuals, they should be eliminated whenever they are found. Knowing the name of the mold does not change anything since the same safety precautions should be used whenever remediating mold, regardless of the “name.”

Mold Prevention Tips
There is no practical way to eliminate all of the mold spores in an indoor environment. But there are many ways to help control moisture and mold growth in your home. The basic rule is: if you can see or smell mold, take steps to eliminate the excess moisture, and to clean and remove any mold. It is very important to quickly identify and correct any moisture sources before health problems develop.

Stop The Water

• Fix leaks in pipes and any damp area around tubs and sinks so mold spores don’t have agrowing environment.
• If you rebuild or remodel, do so with water-resistant building materials such as tile, stone,deep-sealed concrete, waterproof wallboard,
water-resistant glues, etc.
• Prevent seepage of water from the outdoors into your house. It’s important to have rainwater from gutters or the roof drain away from the house. The ground around the house needs to slope away to keep the basement and crawl space dry.
• Ventilate any crawl space as much as possible to allow for thorough drying.

Keep  It  Dry
• Reduce the moisture in the air with dehumidifiers, fans and open windows or air conditioners, especially in hot weather. Do
NOT use fans if mold may already exist; a fan will spread the mold spores.
• Try to keep the humidity in your home below 40%.
• In moisture-prone areas, consider easy-to-clean, water-resistant floor coverings, such as vinyl or stone tile.
• Reduce potential for condensation on cold surfaces by insulating.

Dealing  With Mold
• If you discover mold, the first step is to find and eliminate the water source, as above.
• Then, if it is a small area (less than about 10 sq ft), and you feel comfortable, clean the mold with a detergent solution and thoroughly
dry all materials.
• If it is larger than 10 sq ft, consider calling a professional mold remediation company, such as PuroClean, the Paramedics of Property
Damage™. Their well-trained, professional technicians understand and apply industry standard approaches to remediate mold completely, while being as safe for your home and your family as possible.

Regardless of the circumstances – dealing with mold, water damage, fire/smoke damage, or bio-hazard remediation – call your local PuroClean office, the Paramedics of Property Damage™. For all property damage situations, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.

written by

Will Southcombe

Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator

Category: Mold  | Leave a Comment
Controlling Catastrophic Odors
Tuesday, August 24th, 2010 | Author:

One of the most annoying situations that a homeowner can experience involves a “catastrophic” odor. Odors are frequently a cause for concern, and there literally are hundreds of products available, over-the-counter (OTC) to help deal with those odors. In most cases, the odors are fairly routine and the products work to a greater or lesser extent, sometimes depending on who is doing the smelling. This article is going to focus on controlling odors that are, fortunately, not routine. They are: skunk, serious pet urine odor, and the odors associated with decomposition. Such odors are both very pervasive and very difficult to manage or control. We will deal with skunk and serious pet urine odors, first, and then discuss decomposition odors.

Before you do any of the following processes, it is very important to be safe. You will be dealing with some degree of biological contamination, and safety is even more important than usual. Certainly, you will want to wear gloves and eye protection. You also want to protect yourself from splashes or spills on your skin. And, finally, you should consider wearing an N-95 disposable respirator (available at Home Depot and
similar stores). While the risk of inhaling contaminants is slight, it does exist, and it is certainly best to be safe. The other purpose served by an N-95 is that it keeps splashes from contacting the mucus membranes of your mouth or nose. And, finally, it is a physical barrier that will stop you from accidentally touching your mouth or nose with your (potentially contaminated) hand or finger. That is a habit that is difficult to break, and the mask stops it from happening.

In every mal-odor situation, the first step is to remove the source. If pet urine odors are on nonporous surfaces (metal, plastic or vinyl, etc.), thorough cleaning is the first step, and it may be enough. Pet urine and skunk spray contain natural oils, so using a strong detergent is very important since those oils contain the odor and must be removed. Using very warm (but not dangerously hot) water will make the
cleaning faster and more effective. It may be necessary to clean the same area more than once. When finished, a final rinse with warm water helps remove the last bits of material, and it also removes any residue of the cleaning solution. This will prevent re-soiling since any residue will tend to attract dust and dirt.

Often the pet urine or skunk contamination is on porous materials, such as carpet, upholstery, drapes, particle board, etc. If it is on the surface of these materials, then cleaning, as above, is usually the first step. If cleaning is not successful, or if there is simply too much for the process to be successful, then you should call a professional restoration company such as PuroClean. In the case of carpet and pad with excessive pet urine damage, it is common that those materials are simply removed and disposed of as trash.

Semi-porous materials, such as wood (subfloor, 2×4’s in walls, etc.) are a little different. As always, start with cleaning as above. Use your solution liberally. One of the goals is to have the cleaning product penetrate these materials to the same extent as the odor material, to help neutralize all of the materials. If particle board is heavily damaged by any fluid, including urine or skunk, then it cannot be restored to

pre-loss condition and needs to be removed. If the job is too large or too complex, or if what you try doesn’t work, then you should seek assistance from a PuroClean professional restoration company. PuroClean professionals have specific training, specialized equipment and professional-grade products especially designed to help deal with cleaning and odor issues.

When you are dealing with an odor problem from decomposition, you should always consider calling PuroClean. If the situation involves a deceased person, then it is essential. After the proper authorities (coroner, medical examiner, etc.) have removed the body, then cleaning and
decontaminating the remaining fluids come under federal or state, Occupational Safety and Health Administration, Blood and Other Potentially Infectious Material (BOPIM) regulations. These regulations specify the training, equipment, safety issues, and products that must be used to safely remove and decontaminate an area damaged by BOPIM.

If the source of the decomposition odor is a rodent or other small animal, the odor usually seems to be much larger! Even here, you may want to consider calling in a PuroClean professional restoration company. If you decide to “do it yourself,” then the approach is similar to the above. All of the safety items are extra important because of the decomposition materials. Damaged, absorbent materials are simply put in the trash. Semi-porous and nonporous materials need to be thoroughly cleaned and then sanitized with a disinfectant. OTC disinfectants are very effective and will result in a clean and sanitary surface.

If an odor is still present, then try an air freshener. If the problem persists, call PuroClean. PuroClean professionals will have special products as well as special equipment, such as ozone or hydroxyl generators that can be very effective in completing the deodorizing process.

Regardless of the circumstances – dealing with an odor problem, water damage, fire/smoke damage, or mold remediation — call your local PuroClean office, the Paramedics of Property Damage™. For all property damage situations, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke,mold, and other disasters.

written by

Will Southcombe

Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator

Category: Restoration  | Leave a Comment
Freezing Weather and Water Damage
Thursday, November 05th, 2009 | Author:

Property damage caused by freezing weather occurs more frequently and creates greater damage than is commonly thought. When water freezes, its volume increases by approximately eleven percent (11%) and this expansion exerts tremendous force. This force is sufficient to break concrete or even steel! When even a small amount of water enters a structure and freezes, the resulting expansion and weakens the structure allowing more water to enter. The damage cycle continues until the source problem (the initial entry point) is repaired.
A number of variables acting separately or together contribute to freeze damage. A drop in temperature, the type of building construction, the amount and quality of insulation, the direction and force of wind, and other weather-related conditions are all contributing factors.
An occupied building is not completely free from freeze-related damages, even when it is constructed to withstand freezing weather and is properly maintained and heated. However, a significant amount of freeze damage occurs when a building is not occupied, especially if the owners are gone for an extended period, and the heating system is not on during the freezing weather. In northern climates, many people go south for the winter. They winterize their homes before they leave by draining the plumbing system and adding antifreeze to plumbing fixtures. Frequently this is not completely effective, and the owners find freeze damage when they return.
Draining the plumbing system needs to be thorough and complete. If the water lines sag or bow, it can result in a low spot that is nearly impossible to completely drain. To be most effective, draining the water lines should be accompanied by the use of compressed air to blow out the lines. If this is not done, water will rest and freeze in the low points of the lines and may cause the pipes to break. The damage then is discovered only after the water is turned back on and escapes from that break. Virtually all plumbing lines are placed inside of walls and are not visible. As a result, a freeze-caused leak is only discovered when water damage to floors, carpet, walls, or ceilings becomes visible. Occasionally the sound of spraying water can be heard by an occupant, but by then it may already be too late. The leak has already caused some degree of damage.
People living in the south usually consider themselves immune from this type of damage. Because of this sense of security, construction in the southern parts of the country often does not adequately take into consideration that fact that the temperature does occasionally drop below freezing. When that happens and property is poorly insulated, then damage will occur.
Winter wind, snow or ice storms frequently damage electric power lines and equipment resulting in interruptions of electric power. Most heating systems depend on electricity, and when the power goes off, so does the heat. In severe cold weather, this can result in extensive freeze damage before power is restored.
Buildings that are poorly designed and do not withstand weather well can contribute to their own damage. Many old buildings were not insulated at all.
To avoid freezing, plumbing lines were commonly run along the inside of interior walls and ceilings rather than enclosed within the walls. In some cases, many lines simply ran inside of un-insulated walls. During renovation of some old homes, blown or foam insulation has been added into wall cavities between interior and exterior wall surfaces and between each stud. This process many times served to insulate heat away from pipes that were located inside of walls and adjacent to the exterior wall surfaces or in attics, actually making them more susceptible to freezing.
The type and age of the plumbing system is also a factor. Rust or corrosion weakens pipes, making leaks easier to occur. When freeze expansion occurs, such pipes will often split open. As thawing begins or when the water is turned back on, this situation will result in water damage.
There is also a form of direct damage that can occur from extreme cold even though no moisture is present. Most building materials and personal property are unaffected by cold alone, provided they are dry. Extremely cold temperatures can damage some sensitive computer and other electronic components. In northern climates, temperatures commonly fall below zero and occasionally dip to minus 40 to 50 degrees. The contraction associated with those extremely low temperatures can congeal Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) and fuel oil, causing heating system failure.
Regardless of the circumstances— if water damage occurs from freezing or other sources, call your local PuroClean office. These professionals will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have professional, well-trained technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire/smoke, mold, and other disasters.
written by
Will Southcombe
Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator

Copyright © 2003-2009. All rights reserved in all countries.
Reproduction of the material is prohibited without prior permission.

Category: Flood  | 2 Comments
What you should know about Turkey Fryers
Thursday, October 29th, 2009 | Author:

A longtime food favorite in the southern United States, the delicious deep-fried turkey has quickly grown in popularity thanks to celebrity chefs. While some people rave about this tasty creation, UL safety experts are concerned that backyard chefs may be sacrificing safety for good taste. After extensive testing, UL has decided not to certify any turkey fryers with their trusted UL mark.

Here’s why using a deep-fryer can be dangerous:

• Many units easily tip over, spilling the hot oil and resulting in fire.
• If the cooking pot is overfilled, oil may spill out of the unit when the turkey is placed inside. Oil may hit the burner, causing flames to engulf the entire unit.
• Water from frozen turkeys placed into the fryer may react with oil, cause a spill-over effect, resulting in a fire or explosion.
• Marinades also pose a potential hazard. Oil and water don’t mix and may result in fire or explosion.
•With no thermostat controls, the unit also has the potential to overheat to the point of combustion.

If you must use a turkey fryer, here are some tips for safer use:
• Turkey fryers should always be used outdoors a safe distance from buildings and any other material that can burn.
• Never use turkey fryers on wooden decks or in garages.
• Make sure the fryers are used on a flat surface to reduce accidental tipping.
• To avoid oil spillover, do not overfill the fryer.
• Keep an all-purpose fire extinguisher nearby. Never use water to extinguish a grease fire.
•If the fire increases, immediately call 9-1-1.

Category: fire, Smoke  | 2 Comments
Can We Save the Carpet?
Wednesday, October 28th, 2009 | Author:

A pipe breaks and now you have wet carpet damage. The insured calls the agent and the process begins. The sooner the policyholder calls the quicker the response and, normally, the lower the total costs of restoration.
Although many issues can be discussed involving water damages, in this article we’re going to concentrate on just one—the carpet. Of all the dollars spent by the insurance industry on property claims, floor covering is, by far, the most expensive category. It stands to reason that if we can save floor coverings affected by water damage the savings, on a national scale, would be significant.
As with any loss, health and safety is of primary importance. The customer should be cautioned about electrical hazards, slip and fall and falling debris, such as drywall or acoustical ceiling tiles.
Quick response is of the essence. The longer the unwanted wet carpet damage is allowed to remain, the more likely the carpeting will experience permanent damage. Because of this, regardless of the hour, the restoration process should begin without delay.

Wet Carpet Damage

Some customers attempt to extract the water themselves. While this can be of some benefit, a shop vacuum, towels and ceiling fans are absolutely no replacement for professional extraction and drying equipment. It is very important to get a professional mitigator on site as soon as possible! The very best opportunity to save carpet (and other items)is to have professionals on site immediately.
The initial stage or phase of the wet carpet damage restoration process includes addressing safety issues and employing “contain and control” procedures. Standing water must be pumped or extracted to prevent migration of water into adjoining areas and sub-surfaces. Professional moisture meters are used to determine the exact location and extent of water damage.
The first step professional restorers take is determining the category of loss: (A) is this a Category-1 loss? (clean watersource;) (B) is this a Category-2 loss? (gray water: with some contamination but not including pathogens or sewage;) or (C) is this a Category-3 loss? (blackwater: involves sewage and known contamination.)
Category-1 is a clean water source and has not come in contact with materials that carry a health concern for the occupants. This would include broken pipes, hot water heaters, tub or sink overflows, etc. professional mitigation specialists can extract water from the carpet and pad and dry them both in place! This dramatically reduces the cost of the claim and helps restore the lives of the policy holders much more quickly.
Category-2 is not a clean water source. This water contains some contamination and has the potential to cause discomfort or sickness if contacted or consumed by humans. Typically this would include washing machine or dishwasher overflows, toilet overflows with no solid matter, broken aquariums, sump pump failures, etc. Because of the additional contamination, this type of loss requires the replacement of the carpet pad, but the carpet itself is normally salvageable. Note: if a Category-2 loss is not treated promptly then the category will escalate to a Category-3 loss (black water.) This is often considered the situation if 48 hours have passed since the loss occurred.
Category-3 is grossly contaminated water containing pathogenic or other harmful agents. Examples of this water include sewage, toilet backflows that originate beyond the toilet trap (regardless of color) all forms of flooding from seawater, rising water from the ground and from rivers or streams, and other water entering the structure from hurricanes, storms or weather-related events.
This water condition is of primary concern when it comes to the health and safety of the occupants. It should be treated seriously because it is serious. Mitigation professionals should be called to deal with this type of loss. Policyholders should not expose themselves to Category-3 water. If, for some reason it is necessary, then they should be reminded to wear gloves, shoe protection and other items to protect themselves.
Carpet is a multi-layered installation with a big sponge under it. Industry standards require that carpet and pad (and anything that is absorbent –textiles, drywall, etc.) that have been contaminated with black water must be bagged and removed from the structure, and disposed of in an appropriate location. Professional restoration companies understand this and operate accordingly.
Every water loss is different. Even with Category-1 andCategory-2 losses, there are varying circumstances that determine whether the carpet can be or should be saved. How old it is, what condition it is in, how it was installed and its construction are all factors that have to be taken into consideration. Mitigation professionals have the training and knowledge to evaluate each situation and to determine the best course of action. They are also trained to communicate well with policyholders, agents and adjusters to insure that everyone understands the process and proper procedures.
So the next time you meet with one of your insureds, take a few moments to explain to them how important rapid response is in the event they were to experience a water loss. Remember, the single most important act in such an event is to call a professional mitigation company to help deal with the loss. Professionals will restore the lives of the policyholders as quickly as possible with maximum cost efficiency and in a trustworthy and understanding manner.
Doug Bowles 4/2007
CCT, CCMT, UFT, WRT, SRT, CRT, RRT
Copyright © 2003-2007. All rights reserved in all countries.
Reproduction of this material is prohibited without prior permission.
This publication provided courtesy of your local PuroClean office.
Offices Independently Owned and Operated.

wet carpet damage

Category: Flood  | Leave a Comment
Warning: Do Not use Chlorine Bleach to Clean Up or Kill Mold
Monday, October 26th, 2009 | Author:

WARNING !!!
Do NOT use Chlorine bleach to kill mold or disinfect moldy areas. It is not an effective or long lasting killer of mold and mold spores. Bleach is good only for changing the color of the mold and watering the roots of the mold.
CHLORINE BLEACH IS INEFFECTIVE IN KILLING MOLD FOR THESE REASONS:

(1) The object to killing mold is to kill its “roots”. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s Mold Remediation/ Clean Up Methods guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
(2) Chlorine Bleach does kill bacteria and viruses, but has not been proven effective in killing molds on non-porous surfaces. Bleach itself is 99% water. Water is one of the main contributors of the growth of harmful bacteria and mold. Current situations using bleach re-grew and regenerated mold and bacteria twice the CFU counts than were originally found before bleaching, within a short period of time. Bleach is an old method used for some bacteria and mold. It is the only product people have known for years. The strains now associated within Indoor Air quality issues are resistant to the methods our grandmothers employed to clean-up mold..
(3) What potential mold ‘killing’ power chlorine bleach might have, is diminished significantly as the bleach sits in warehouses, on grocery store shelves or inside your home or business 50% loss in killing power in just the first 90 days inside a never opened jug or container. Chlorine constantly escapes through the plastic walls of its containers.

(4) The ionic structure of bleach prevents Chlorine from penetrating into porous materials such as drywall and wood—it just stays on the outside surface, whereas mold has enzyme roots growing inside the porous construction materials—however, the water content penetrates and actually FEEDS the mold—this is why a few days later you will notice darker, more concentrated mold growing (faster) on the bleached area.
(5) Chlorine Bleach accelerates the deterioration of materials and wears down the fibers of porous materials.

(6) Chlorine Bleach is NOT registered with the EPA as a disinfectant to kill mold. You can verify this important fact for yourself when you are unable to find an EPA registration number for killing mold on the label of any brand of chlorine bleach.
(7) Chlorine bleach off gases for a period of time. Chlorine off gassing can be harmful to humans and animals. It has been known to cause pulmonary embolisms in low resistant, and susceptible people.
(8) Chlorine bleach will evaporate within a short period of time. If the area is not dry when the bleach evaporates, or moisture is still in the contaminated area (humidity, outside air dampness), you could re- start the contamination process immediately and to a greater degree.
(9) Chlorine is a key component of DIOXIN. One of the earliest findings of dioxin’s toxicity in animals was that it caused birth defects in mice at very low levels. This finding led to dioxin being characterized as “one of the most potent teratogenic environmental agents”. The first evidence that dioxin causes cancer came from several animal studies completed in the late 1970′s. The most important of these, published in 1978 by a team of scientists from Dow Chemical Company, led by Richard Kociba, found liver cancer in rats exposed to very low levels of dioxin. This study helped establish dioxin as one of the most potent animal carcinogens ever tested and, together with the finding of birth defects in mice, led to the general statement that dioxin is the “most toxic synthetic chemical known to man.” (Find more information on DIOXIN, by clicking HERE & HERE)
If Not Bleach, What Can I use?

Chlorine Bleach and Mold Clean Up (Let’s Set the Record Straight!)
(reprinted with permission from our friends at Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC)
The Myth.
A myth exists concerning the use and “effectiveness” of chlorine bleach (sodium hypochorite) in the remediation of a mold problem. Mold remediation involves the removal and or clean up and restoration of mold contaminated building materials.
Opposing Views and Confusion.
Chlorine bleach, commonly referred to as laundry bleach, is generally perceived to be an “accepted and answer-all” biocide to abate mold in the remediation processes. Well-intentioned recommendations of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and other federal, state and local agencies are perpetuating that belief. And confusing the issue is one federal agency, the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA), taking an opposing point of view by NOT recommending the use of chlorine bleach as a routine practice in mold remediation.
Does Bleach Really Kill Mold?
Will chlorine bleach kill mold or not—yes or no? The answer is yes, but with a caveat. That answer comes from The Clorox Company, Oakland CA, manufacturer and distributor of Ultra Clorox® Regular Bleach. The company’s correspondence to Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC stated that their Tech Center studies supported by independent laboratories show that “…3/4 cup of Clorox liquid bleach per gallon of water will be effective on hard, non-porous surfaces against… Aspergillus niger and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete’s Foot Fungus)”. Whether or not chlorine bleach kills other molds and fungi, the company did not say. The words “hard, non-porous” surfaces” present the caveat. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s Mold Remediation/ Clean Up Methods guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
Why Chlorine Bleach is NOT Recommended for Mold Remediation.
Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is corrosive and that fact is stated on the product label. Yet the properties of chlorine bleach prevent it from “soaking into” wood-based building materials to get at the deeply embedded mycilia (roots) of mold. The object to killing mold is to kill its “roots”. Reputable mold remediation contractors use appropriate products that effectively disinfect salvageable mold infected wood products. Beware of any mold inspector or mold remediation company that recommends or uses chlorine bleach for mold clean up on wood-based building materials.
Chlorine Bleach Is Active Ingredient in New Mold & Mildew Products.
The appearance of new mold and mildew household products on store shelves is on the rise. Most are dilute solutions of laundry bleach. The labels on these mold and mildew products state that they are for use on (again) hard, non-porous surfaces and not for wood-based materials. Instructions where not to apply the products are varied. A few examples where the branded products should not be applied include wood or painted surfaces, aluminum products, metal (including stainless steel), faucets, marble, natural stone, and, of course, carpeting, fabrics and paper. One commercial mold and mildew stain remover even specifically states it should not be applied to porcelain or metal without immediate rinsing with water and that the product isn’t recommended for use on formica or vinyl.
Caveat Emptor!
Before purchasing a mold and mildew product, read and fully understand the advertised purpose of that product — and correctly follow the use instructions of a purchased product. The labeling claims on these new products can be confusing — some say their product is a mold and mildew remover while another says their product is a mildew stain remover and yet others make similar ‘ambiguous’ claims. Make double sure that the product satisfies your intended need on the surface to which it is to be applied. If your intention is to kill mold, make sure the product does exactly that and follow the directions for usage. Consumers may find that mixing their own diluted bleach solution will achieve the same results as any of the new mold and mildew products — keep in mind that the use of chlorine bleach is not for use on mold infected wood products including wall board, ceiling tiles, wall studs, fabric, paper products, etc.

Conclusion.
Laundry bleach is not an effective mold killing agent for wood-based building materials and NOT EFFECTIVE in the mold remediation process. OSHA is the first federal agency to announce a departure from the use of chlorine bleach in mold remediation. In time, other federal agencies are expected to follow OSHA’s lead. The public should be aware, however, that a chlorine bleach solution IS an effective sanitizing product that kills mold on hard surfaces and neutralizes indoor mold allergens that trigger allergies.
Using bleach can cause serious health problems.
The fumes are very caustic and great care must be taken not to breath it in too much.
It is also very damaging to clothing and carpeting, the human body, and the environment.
THE MOST EFFECTIVE METHOD TO GET RID OF VISIBLE MOLD IS BY REMOVING THE AFFECTED AREA.
NOTE ::: MoldAcrossAmerica does not recommend the use of ozone to address mold or any other indoor air problems

ALL molds reproduce by making “spores.” Mold spores are microscopic and only become visible when individual spores accumulate. According to the United States EPA, these microscopic particles continuously move through indoor and outdoor air. When mold spores find moisture indoors, they may “begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive.” Molds gradually destroy whatever they are growing on.

Reprinted from www.moldacrossamerica.org/notobleach.htm

Category: Mold  | One Comment
How to Deal with Dangerous Mold
Thursday, October 22nd, 2009 | Author:

There are numerous articles and news stories about mold in an indoor environment and the health hazards it can create. Sometimes questions arise, such as: What should I do when mold is growing in my home? Does it matter what kind of mold it is? How can I help ensure it will not come back?

Mold is the term used to describe a very large group of fungi. Molds are vital to the earth’s ecosystem, aiding in the decomposition of dead organic materials. They grow wherever there is moisture – both indoors and out.

According to the Center for Disease Control (CDC) microscopic mold spores are everywhere, in the air and on surfaces. The CDC states: Mold growth, which often looks like spots, can be many different colors, and can smell musty. If you can see or smell mold, a health risk may be present. You do not need to know the type of mold growing in your home. The CDC does not recommend or perform routine sampling for molds. No matter what type of mold is present, you should remove it. Since the effect of mold on people can vary greatly, either because of the amount or type of mold, you can not rely on sampling and culturing to know your health risk. Also, good sampling for mold can be expensive, and standards for judging what is and what is not an acceptable quantity of mold have not been set. The best practice is to remove the mold and work to prevent future growth… If mold is growing in your home, you need to clean up the mold and fix the moisture problem.

Based on the CEC recommendation, anytime you find mold in your home, you should locate and fix the source of the moisture (such as a leaky pipe or seepage around a window), otherwise mold will return after it’s removal. If the area of mold contamination is large (more than about 10 square feet), or if you are concerned with the health risks dealing with mold, consult a trained professional, such as PuroClean® to clean the mold and remove necessary materials or items.

PuroClean professional have the training, expertise and state-of-the-science metering and drying equipment to completely remove the mold from the indoor environment. They can also help with project assessment, providing guidance on the best course of action.

Professionals will set up a containment area around the mold and begin a negative-air, or an air-scurbbing operation, depending on the circumstance. This helps ensure that mold spores are not distributed during removal, which might contaminate other areas of the structure. Technicians will have the necessary training an inoculations, and will use Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to enhance safety.

PuroClean professionals will attempt to clean and dry mold-contaminated materials to help prevent recurrence. If materials cannot be satisfactorily cleaned, or if they need to be removed to access other moldy materials, a professional will take them down to structural lumber. All materials removed are placed in plastic bags and taken out of the structure. This ensures there is no cross-contamination with other areas during the process. Once the moldy material is outside in nature, it simply becomes trash and can go to a normal landfill. Often, the final step is to apply a sealant that will prevent the return of mold to those surfaces. A professional will always perform an air-sample clearance test to confirm the success of the operation.

Regardless of the circumstances – dealing with mold, responding to water damage or fire/smoke damage – call your local PuroClean office, the Paramedics of Property Damage™. For all property damage situations, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damage from water, fire, smoke, mold and other disasters.

Written by
Will Southcombe
Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters

Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management
Water Resotration Technician
Applied Structural Drying
Certified Microbial Remediator

Copyright © 2003-2009. All rights reserved in all countries.
Reproduction of the material is prohibited without prior permission.

Category: Mold  | Leave a Comment
Drying Water-Damaged Walls
Thursday, October 22nd, 2009 | Author:

When water damage occurs in a home, not only are the floors affected, but often drying water damaged walls is difficult. Sometimes the damage is obvious, but in many cases it is hidden and may be missed by those not specifically trained in drying water damaged walls.

For the restoration professional, the first step is to determine the extent of the water damage. Water that enters a room from ground level will cover the floor and floor covering, and will then begin to wick up the wall (move vertically) because of capillary action in porous materials. The extent of this wicking will depend on the construction of the wall, the amount of the water, and its height on the wall material.

Drywall is an absorbent material made of a gypsum core and a cardboard-like paper on both sides. Drywall can wick water up to thirty inches and is very tricky drying water damaged walls! The water will be present on both sides of the wall and often, it is higher on the inside due to restricted evaporation on that side of the drywall. While water damage is sometimes visible, at other times, the wall does not show signs of this moisture.

A restoration professional has a full range of professional metering equipment to help evaluate damage. One choice is a non-invasive moisture meter. This meter uses radio waves to test for the presence of water without putting holes in the wall. Another professional instrument is an infrared imaging device or camera. Since the evaporation from wet walls makes them cooler than dry walls, the IR camera can identify the presence of water in walls — with no holes or other invasion of the wall material.

Once wet walls are identified, drying water damage walls equipment is used to restore them. If there is no insulation present, the walls can usually be dried without holes and without removing the baseboard. The restoration professional places High Capacity Air Movers along the wall every ten to fourteen linear feet. These air movers remove the water molecules from the surface of the wall, allowing further evaporation (drying) to occur as quickly as possible. As the moisture from the wall evaporates into the air, capillary action draws more moisture to the surface where it evaporates.

The restoration professional will also install a Low Grain Refrigerant dehumidifier in the structure — one or more as needed. This state-of-the-science drying equipment reduces the humidity levels to facilitate drying and help prevent the occurrence of mold.

Drying Water Damaged Walls Tips

When appropriate, the restoration professional will install an inner-wall drying system by putting small holes above the sill plate and forcing air into the wall cavity. Studies have shown that this is the best and fastest way to dry walls with water damage.

If there is a moisture barrier on the outside or inside the wall, the drying procedure changes. Moisture barriers are coatings or materials that inhibit the movement of moisture from the wall material. Most latex paints are permeable and do not constitute a barrier. Glossy paints may create a barrier. Enamel paint or vinyl wall coverings create a complete barrier. They will need to be perforated or removed to allow the moisture to escape and the walls to dry.

If there is plastic or foil on the inside of the wall, then the wall will need to be removed since drying will not occur properly and mold will almost certainly develop in such situations.

Insulation in the wall will also affect drying. If there is fiberglass insulation with paper backing, then an inner-wall drying system can be used, as described above. If the insulation is foil-backed fiberglass, blown-in cellulose, or a Styrofoam material, then it cannot be dried successfully. In those cases, removing the damaged portion of the wall along with the insulation is necessary to allow rapid drying and to prevent the development of mold.

Regardless of the procedures used by the restoration professional, it is important that the customer recognize that the equipment must operate, without stopping, throughout the drying process.

A restoration professional will monitor the drying system at least once each day to insure the equipment is operating correctly and to make adjustments as needed. Part of the daily monitoring includes moisture measurements to determine when the materials are successfully dried. Material dryness is measured against similar unaffected materials in that structure. When the levels are the same, the drying is finished and the equipment removed.

A restoration professional, such as PuroClean, understands and uses the principles and procedures of the science of drying to dry walls and other items as quickly and thoroughly as possible, preventing further damage and the development of mold.

Regardless of the circumstances — if water damage occurs from storms, floods, or other sources, call your local PuroClean office, the Paramedics of Property Damage™. For all water damage, or damage from fire or smoke, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.

written by
Will Southcombe
Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator

Drying water damaged walls can be tricky so leave it up to the professionals.

Category: Flood  | One Comment
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