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Tobacco Smoke Odor Removal
Wednesday, May 12th, 2010 | Author: PuroClean911

Restoration professionals are often asked if they are able to remove cigarette or tobacco smoke odors. For instance, a home may need to be deodorized when it is being sold; an apartment may need the service between tenants; an automobile may need odor removal; etc.

The EPA says that Environmental Tobacco Smoke (ETS) is the mixture of smoke that comes from the burning end of a cigarette, pipe, or cigar, plus the smoke exhaled by the smoker. It is a complex mixture of over 4,000 compounds, more than 40 of which are known to cause cancer in humans or animals, and many of which are strong irritants. ETS is often referred to as “secondhand smoke,” and exposure to ETS is often called “passive smoking.”

The smoke from tobacco clouds the air and sticks to every surface of the area. It is not only seen in the air; people can also see, smell, and feel a yellowish-brown, sticky substance that is left on all surfaces and furniture in areas where smoking has taken place. This extremely hard-to-remove residue discolors painted surfaces and plastics. It can permanently change the appearance of wallpaper, blinds, paint, and many other items in the area. The smoke can penetrate into furniture, carpets, walls, windows, and every other nook and cranny in the area. And the building’s HVAC system will carry the smoke odor and the residues throughout the structure. The contaminants are not only unsightly but can off-gas odors that many people simply find unbearable.

The end result of long term smoking in enclosed areas is much the same as that of an actual fire. Unfortunately, one difference is that the smoke from a fire is sometimes much easier to remove from walls or other surfaces than tobacco smoke. Removing tobacco residues can be a real challenge. It is very time consuming, as residues are present throughout the entire home, business, or other affected area.

Restoration professionals, insurance professionals and property owners should be aware, at the beginning of a tobacco-smoke cleanup project, that there is no magic bullet that just whisks away residues and smells. Though it would be nice to be able to plug in a “magic” machine or spray some “miracle” liquid to eliminate tobacco smoke problems, such products simply do not exist. The only effective way to remove tobacco residue and smell is through very thorough cleaning and then sealing all structural surfaces. Even though residues may appear to be concentrated in only one area, once cleaning starts it will normally be found that all areas are contaminated, and cleaning all surfaces will be necessary to remove contaminants and odors. The very tiny particles of tobacco smoke find their way into all areas. The cleaning process will always include deodorizing agents to help with that process. Even after thorough and successful cleaning, it is usually necessary to seal surfaces with a sealant designed to lock in the very last of the stains and odors. It is important to recognize that a normal “primer” is not sufficient, and a product designed to seal smoke residues is required. Finally, the surfaces will be ready to paint, refinish, or to apply new coverings.

The “soft” things in a home such as upholstery, bedding, window coverings, clothes, etc. will need special attention. Because they absorb odors so well, and are often easily damaged, they will be very difficult to successfully restore and may require outside specialists. Testing should be conducted to evaluate the success of such efforts. In many cases, the decision is made to simply replace these materials and items.

After the restoration professional has finished the cleaning, it may be necessary to use specialized, professional equipment to help remove the very last of the odors, often in areas that cannot be cleaned (inside joints, inside walls, etc.) This will often involve hydroxyl generators or ozone generators. Both are professional equipment that create molecules which can follow the smoke into tiny spaces, and both processes effectively destroy the malodorous particles.

As with every property loss, PuroClean restoration professionals help bring property back to a pre-loss condition. PuroClean restoration professionals are highly trained and skilled in procedures not only to remedy tobacco smoke odors, but to return property owners to their restored property cost-effectively and in the shortest time possible.

Regardless of the circumstances — dealing with tobacco smoke or other fire/smoke damage, water damage, mold, or biohazard remediation — call your local PuroClean office, the Paramedics of Property Damage. For all property damage situations, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.

written by

Will Southcombe

Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters

Master of Arts,

Master of Business Management,

Water Restoration Technician,

Applied Structural Drying,

Certified Microbial Remediator

Category: Smoke  | One Comment
No More Mold with Water Damage
Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010 | Author: PuroClean911

PuroClean Disaster Recovery Experts, a flood restoration company serving Thornton, Westminster, Broomfield, Commerce City, Denver and Colorado’s Front Range, recently advanced flood restoration technology into the 21st century. They purchased a new machine that completely re-thinks the way most companies dry flood water from homes and places of business. TES (Thermal Energy System) is a system that uses heat and air exchange far differently than conventional methods.

We live in a part of the country where our homes/businesses can be flooded by frozen/ruptured pipes or everyday accidents where pipes break and cause a flood situation. When faced with this problem, you should contact a restoration company to get he water out and dry your structure. The average restoration company will dry y our home/business in 3-6 days. This length of time can create prime conditions for mold to grow in your home. However, PuroClean Disaster Recovery Experts now dries your home/business in just 24-48 hours! They are using the new revolutionary drying system called TES (Thermal Energy System). PuroClean Disaster Recovery Experts is the only company in our market that uses TES, to dry their customers’ homes and get them back to their regular everyday life quickly, and with less rick of mold.

Mold and structure damage can occur when water is trapped in a building for long periods of time. The faster you dry the home, the less mold and structure damage you’ll have. Some restoration companies use other systems to heat up air in a building to reduce the drying time. What makes this new technology (TES) so different and exciting is that it applies heat directly to the water in the structure, not just the air. As a result, the heat (thermal energy) transfers energy to the water molecules trapped in the building material, thus exciting them and causing more of them to change from a liquid to a vapor. In school, you were taught that molecules in liquid form are constantly moving. The more you heat water, the faster the water molecules move. The faster they move, the faster the liquid changes to a vapor. It’s what’s known as escape velocity or, more commonly, evaporation. Once the water is hanging in the air in vapor form it can be blown out of the building and replaced with dry air.

What all this boils down to is that the time it takes to dry a building has now gone from a few days using conventional methods, to two days or less using TES. This of course depends on the size of the building and severity of the flood. It’s great news for anyone who suffered an ugly wake-up call from Old Mother Nature, e.g. floods and frozen pipes or something as minor as a pipe leaking behind a refridgerator (sometimes no so minor!). If the insurance coverage on your home or business is up to date, flood emergencies should be covered by it. You need to make it clear to your insurance agent or adjuster that, whatever company they hire, you want the technology and advantages of TES. TES will reduce the drying time and get your life back to normal fast. The technology is out there, and because of PuroClean Disaster Recovery Experts, it’s now available in our area.

TES is a break-through product made by Bridgepoint Systems, a Salt Lake City company that manufactures chemicals and equipment for cleaning and restoration professionals. If you have questions regarding TES, how it works, or about PuroClean Disaster Recovery Experts, please call us at 303-566-9600.


To watch an informative video on our TES system please click here

Category: Restoration  | Leave a Comment
Biohazard Remediation
Monday, February 15th, 2010 | Author: PuroClean911

Most people never think of what is involved to clean up blood or body fluids after an accident, injury, or unattended death aka Biohazard remediation. Insurance professionals may receive a call from a frantic or grieving property owner when such a loss occurs. How to proceed requires serious consideration and special attention – not only because the individuals involved are emotional or experiencing stress, but also because certain materials are hazardous.
In 1991, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) issued the Bloodborne Pathogens Standard (29 CFR 1910.1030) to protect workers from this risk of blood or other potentially infectious materials (BOPIM). This standard helps protect approximately 5.6 million workers in the health care industry and related occupations.

Biohazard remediation

falls within the scope of the BOPIM standard.

The standard provides regulations to protect workers from the risk of exposure to bloodborne pathogens such as the Hepatitis B Virus (HBV), Human Immunodeficiency Virus (HIV), and many others. The BOPIM standard has several requirements, including:
• The use of work practice controls
• The use of appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)
• Proper handling, transport, and disposal of hazardous medical waste materials
• Specific required vaccinations
• Mandatory training
• Record keeping
Hazardous medical waste includes blood and other potentially infectious materials, such as spinal fluid, peritoneal fluid, amniotic fluid, and other body fluids. PuroClean restoration professionals are aware that these materials may cause infection to others. During the cleanup process, proper steps are required to always maintain the safety of workers or other individuals near the cleanup site. All biohazard materials are assumed infectious and are treated accordingly.
As with any type of property damage, PuroClean restoration professionals ensure that their actions do not compound the sense of loss of the property owners. In traumatic situations associated with BOPIM cleanup, PuroClean restoration professionals are exceptionally sensitive to the things they say and do – especially remembering that those involved may be emotionally vulnerable. It is important to show extra care and understanding at every stage of this type of cleanup. If others are at the location, PuroClean restoration professionals empathize with the traumatic situation these people are dealing with.
It is essential to use proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to help ensure the safety of workers. PPE is necessary in complying with OSHA regulations and worker safety, but varies from job to job, depending on conditions. PPE should always include full-face protection, gloves, properly designated waterproof coveralls that include feet and head protection, and if necessary, a respirator with appropriate filters. The objective of wearing PPE is to avoid potential infection by ensuring that no hazardous material enters the body through skin, eyes, mouth, nose, or any other area.
The proper use of PPE, along with comprehensive training in handling hazardous medical waste, is vital during restoration. An initial assessment will identify immediate areas of concern and determine the scope of the work involved. Once a plan is in place, remediation efforts begin as quickly as possible.
PuroClean professionals start with an initial sanitization for worker safety. All potentially infectious materials are then carefully removed from the site. Hazardous medical waste is handled in compliance with OSHA regulations, appropriately processed, and sent to a licensed hazardous medical waste incinerator. Porous materials such as fabric and carpeting are removed in accordance with industry standards and government regulations. All other affected materials that are not considered hazardous medical waste are either removed or professionally decontaminated and sanitized, depending on the situation. Remaining materials such as drywall and flooring may be sealed – usually for cosmetic reasons to cover any stains from the incident.
Typically, the removal of contaminated materials, along with cleaning and sanitizing, sufficiently controls odors. In some cases, additional deodorization may require hydroxyls or ozone processes.
As with any property loss, PuroClean restoration professionals can help bring an unfortunate situation to a satisfactory solution. PuroClean restoration professionals are trained to clean up after traumatic events in a highly professional manner. They know how to remediate biohazard situations safely and in accordance with all applicable laws and standards. If you have a homeowner or business owner with a biohazard loss, call your local independently owned and operated PuroClean office for prompt and professional service.
Regardless of the circumstances – dealing with biohazards, remediating mold, responding to water damage, or fire/smoke damage – call your local PuroClean office, the Paramedics of Property Damage™. For all property damage situations, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional Technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from biohazard remediation, water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.
written by
Will Southcombe
Director of Technical Services, PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator
Copyright © 2003-2010. All rights reserved in all countries.
Reproduction of the material is prohibited without prior permission.

Category: Biohazard  | Leave a Comment

January 11, 2010 –

For Immediate Release

(Denver, CO) January 11, 2010 – PuroClean Disaster Recovery owner, Mark Wilson is an expert when it comes to water damage cleanup. Among the other types of disaster recovery services

his company performs, including fire and smoke restoration and sewage clean up, water is one of the major ones.

Says Mark, “No one thinks that a water damage crisis could ever happen to them, but the unfortunate truth is that every American is impacted by water damage at some point in their life.”

The longer people wait, the more damage is done to their home. The professionals at PuroClean Disaster Recovery are trained in the latest technology available for water and fire restoration. In addition, mitigating whatever circumstance has occurred, the PuroClean team has undergone extensive training to ensure they can operate with the utmost compassion and professional behavior.

With services that include odor control, debris removal, sanitization, emergency board up of damaged property, structural drying and basement drying, water damage clean up is just one of their specialties. The PuroClean Disaster Recovery has a network of more than 270 offices throughout the nation. They are also backed by a business support center.

Their services and support are available 24 hours, 7 days a week for any emergency that occurs. For homes and businesses, from Denver water damage to Boulder fire damage, the professionals at PuroClean Disaster Recovery know exactly what procedures to follow to get your home back in order or your business up and running again.

Here are just a couple of things their customers have had to say about this company:

“PuroClean was courteous, professional, explained the process and respected both my property as well as my family. They were always on time throughout the process.”

Another customer said:

“PuroClean did a fantastic job of cleaning up the damage. I could not have had a better crew performing the required work.”

Trust your fire water damage restoration or floor damage repair as well as other disaster recovery needed to the professionals at PuroClean. To contact them via email go to http://purocleandisasterrecovery.com or call 303-566-9600 today and rest easier tonight.
denver water damage , fire water damage restoration , water and fire damage

###

For more information:
http://purocleandisasterrecovery.com/
Category: Mold  | Leave a Comment
Dealing With Ice Dams on Roofs
Tuesday, December 01st, 2009 | Author: PuroClean911

A phenomenon that can occur from Autumn through Spring is ice dams on the roofs of homes. Ice dams can cause damage to structures that can be very severe. Following is some important information about ice dams, how they can be prevented, and who to call if one should cause damage to your home.

What is an ice dam, and how does it form?

When snow accumulates on a roof, a cycle of melting and refreezing occurs. In a perfect world, the snow would melt off the roof, enter the gutters, and flow harmlessly to the ground. However, two key factors can interact to cause problems: the outside air temperature and the temperature of the inside of your attic.

The warmer your attic is, the more melting will occur. Normally, the resulting water would flow off the edge of the roof. Under certain conditions, though, when outside air temperature is very low, the edge of the roof stays below freezing and the water refreezes when it gets to that point. This ice then forms a line, or “dam,” at the edge of the roof. As more snow melts, it also refreezes when it gets to the “ice dam,” and the dam keeps getting bigger.

Once this dam gets large enough, the melted snow that pools up behind it can force its way back under the roof shingles and then leak into your home!

Contrary to some popular opinions, gutters do not cause ice dams. However, an ice dam can extend into a gutter if weather conditions permit.

How can ice dams be prevented in the first place?

In many instances, the answer is… insulation and ventilation!

InsulatIon

Since the main cause of ice dams is an overly warm attic, a good start in preventing ice dams is to lower the attic temperature. Installing additional insulation in the attic area is as easy as laying additional layers across the existing ones, or having more insulation blown in. However, there are limits to the usefulness of this procedure (diminishing returns), and a professional roofer or insulation person should be consulted if you have any questions. If you notice bare sections on your roof while the rest of the roof has snow, it is an indication there may be insufficient insulation under the bare areas and an inspection of the attic area should be made to confirm this – and then to remedy the situation if necessary.

And, finally, you should also inspect the weather-stripping and/or insulation on attic stairways or hatchways to be sure it is in good shape and seals well. This will help seal the warmth out of the attic area and help prevent ice dams.

VentIlatIon

Even with optimal insulation, there is still heat leakage into the attic. This is when the value of attic ventilation becomes apparent. Without adequate ventilation, heat will build up regardless of the amount of insulation.

First of all, inspect your attic to be sure that the existing vents have not been covered by insulation or other materials or objects. If this has occurred, it is necessary to remove the insulation (or other material) from the soffits so air can move through them freely. The usual recommendation for venting is 1 square foot of vent for every 150 feet of attic floor area.

If your home does not have that ratio (many older homes do not), then you should contact a Contractor to remedy the problem.

If your home does not have vents, consider adding a ridge vent. Again, a professional Roofer or Contractor can give sound advice on the procedure.

If you are not sure about the condition of your roof, you should contact a professional Roofer in your area for advice or assistance.

What are the indicators of an ice dam?

If you notice water damage (marks, drips or lines) on ceilings or exterior walls, it can be an indication that an ice dam has formed, and ice and water have forced their way into your attic area. In addition to fixing the cause of the ice dam, it is important to recognize that this is a true water damage situation that should be remediated by trained professionals, such as PuroClean, to prevent additional damage to the structure (such as rotting), and to prevent the development of mold – a health hazard to people inside of the structure.

Regardless of the circumstances – if water damage occurs from freezing or other sources, call your local PuroClean office. For all water damage, or damage from fire or smoke, PuroClean professionals will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroCleanoffices have professional, well-trained and certified Technicians who provide the latest state-of- the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.

written by

Will Southcombe

Director of Technical Services,

PuroClean Headquarters

Master of arts,

Master of Business Management,

Water Restoration technician,

applied structural Drying,

Certified Microbial Remediator

Copyright © 2003-2009. All rights reserved in all countries.

Reproduction of the material is prohibited without prior permission.

Category: Flood  | Leave a Comment
Freezing Pipes
Monday, November 16th, 2009 | Author: PuroClean911

Water is a unique substance. As with most materials, when water cools, its density increases and it settles to the bottom of a container. However, at 32º F, it expands and, therefore, its density decreases! This is why ice floats. This expansion increases the volume of water by about 11% and creates tremendous pressure on its container (between 50,000 and 114,000 psi). Such containers include metal and plastic pipes. No matter the strength of a material, expanding water will cause it to break.
Pipes are especially vulnerable to damage caused by expanding water. Water lines that freeze are usually those directly exposed to severe cold, such as outdoor hose bibs, swimming pool supply lines, or water sprinkler lines. In addition, pipes in unheated interior areas such as basements, crawl spaces, attics, garages, and kitchen cabinets, and those that run against exterior walls with little or no insulation are also susceptible to freezing.
A number of variables contribute to freeze damage: the type of building construction; the quality and quantity of insulation; the decline in temperature; the direction and force of wind; and other weather-related conditions are all contributing factors.
Buildings that are poorly designed and do not withstand severe weather sufficiently can contribute to their own damage. The type and age of the plumbing system is also a factor. Rust or corrosion weakens pipes, making leaks more likely to occur. When freeze-expansion occurs, corroded pipes will often split open. When thawing begins or when the water is turned back on, damage can occur.
During renovation of older homes, blown-in or foam insulation is sometimes added to wall cavities between interior and exterior wall surfaces and between studs. This process may actually insulate heat away from pipes adjacent to the exterior wall surfaces, making them more susceptible to freezing.
Surprisingly, pipe freezing can be a particular problem in the warmer climates of southern states. In these areas, buildings may not be adequately constructed for cold weather conditions. Pipes often run through non-insulated or under-insulated attics, crawl spaces, or walls. If the temperature drops below freezing for even a day, these pipes may freeze and break.
In northern climates, many people go south for the winter. They “winterize” their homes by draining the plumbing system and adding antifreeze to plumbing fixtures. This is an excellent prevention procedure and greatly reduces the possibility of frozen pipes.
Draining of a plumbing system should be thorough and complete. If water lines sag or bow, there may be low spots that are difficult to drain completely. To be most effective, compressed air should be used to blow out the lines. If not properly done, some amount of water will remain in the low points of the lines that can freeze.
Damage generally occurs when the water supply is turned back on. Since most modern plumbing lines are inside walls hidden from sight, a freeze-caused leak is usually discovered only after water has damaged floors, carpet, walls, or ceilings. Occasionally, an occupant hears the sound of spraying water, but by then it may be too late. The leak has already caused some degree of damage.
Winter wind, snow, and ice storms frequently damage electric power lines and equipment, resulting in interruptions of electric power. Most heating systems depend on electricity, and when the power goes off, so does the heat. In severe cold weather, this can result in extensive freeze damage before power is restored.
Following are some tips to help prevent damage from frozen pipes when away from your home for more than a day or two:
1. Shut off the water supply and drain pipes or appliances.
2. Have someone you trust check your home about once per week if you are away.
3. Have emergency numbers handy such as a plumber, electrician, roofer, and PuroClean in case something does go wrong.
4. Protect pipes, fittings, and appliances against freezing with insulation or heat strips.
5. Have your HVAC system serviced before leaving if you will be away for an extended period of time.
6. Set your thermostat no lower than 55 degrees.
7. Before leaving turn off your water heater. (See owner’s manual for procedures.)
8. Install storm windows and/or close shutters to keep in heat.
9. Clean gutters and downspouts to ensure proper water drainage.
10. Service sump pump to ensure proper operation. Adding a backup power source is prudent.
11. Unplug all nonessential electric appliances.
12. Inform local police if you will be out of town.
Regardless of the circumstances — frozen or leaking pipes or any water damage, fire/smoke damage, biohazard remediation or mold remediation — call your local PuroClean office, the Paramedics of Property Damage™. For all property damage situations, these professionals are standing by. They will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have well-trained professional technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.

written by
Will Southcombe
Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator
Copyright © 2003-2009. All rights reserved in all countries.
Reproduction of the material is prohibited without prior permission.

Category: Flood  | Leave a Comment
Freezing Weather and Water Damage
Thursday, November 05th, 2009 | Author: admin

Property damage caused by freezing weather occurs more frequently and creates greater damage than is commonly thought. When water freezes, its volume increases by approximately eleven percent (11%) and this expansion exerts tremendous force. This force is sufficient to break concrete or even steel! When even a small amount of water enters a structure and freezes, the resulting expansion and weakens the structure allowing more water to enter. The damage cycle continues until the source problem (the initial entry point) is repaired.
A number of variables acting separately or together contribute to freeze damage. A drop in temperature, the type of building construction, the amount and quality of insulation, the direction and force of wind, and other weather-related conditions are all contributing factors.
An occupied building is not completely free from freeze-related damages, even when it is constructed to withstand freezing weather and is properly maintained and heated. However, a significant amount of freeze damage occurs when a building is not occupied, especially if the owners are gone for an extended period, and the heating system is not on during the freezing weather. In northern climates, many people go south for the winter. They winterize their homes before they leave by draining the plumbing system and adding antifreeze to plumbing fixtures. Frequently this is not completely effective, and the owners find freeze damage when they return.
Draining the plumbing system needs to be thorough and complete. If the water lines sag or bow, it can result in a low spot that is nearly impossible to completely drain. To be most effective, draining the water lines should be accompanied by the use of compressed air to blow out the lines. If this is not done, water will rest and freeze in the low points of the lines and may cause the pipes to break. The damage then is discovered only after the water is turned back on and escapes from that break. Virtually all plumbing lines are placed inside of walls and are not visible. As a result, a freeze-caused leak is only discovered when water damage to floors, carpet, walls, or ceilings becomes visible. Occasionally the sound of spraying water can be heard by an occupant, but by then it may already be too late. The leak has already caused some degree of damage.
People living in the south usually consider themselves immune from this type of damage. Because of this sense of security, construction in the southern parts of the country often does not adequately take into consideration that fact that the temperature does occasionally drop below freezing. When that happens and property is poorly insulated, then damage will occur.
Winter wind, snow or ice storms frequently damage electric power lines and equipment resulting in interruptions of electric power. Most heating systems depend on electricity, and when the power goes off, so does the heat. In severe cold weather, this can result in extensive freeze damage before power is restored.
Buildings that are poorly designed and do not withstand weather well can contribute to their own damage. Many old buildings were not insulated at all.
To avoid freezing, plumbing lines were commonly run along the inside of interior walls and ceilings rather than enclosed within the walls. In some cases, many lines simply ran inside of un-insulated walls. During renovation of some old homes, blown or foam insulation has been added into wall cavities between interior and exterior wall surfaces and between each stud. This process many times served to insulate heat away from pipes that were located inside of walls and adjacent to the exterior wall surfaces or in attics, actually making them more susceptible to freezing.
The type and age of the plumbing system is also a factor. Rust or corrosion weakens pipes, making leaks easier to occur. When freeze expansion occurs, such pipes will often split open. As thawing begins or when the water is turned back on, this situation will result in water damage.
There is also a form of direct damage that can occur from extreme cold even though no moisture is present. Most building materials and personal property are unaffected by cold alone, provided they are dry. Extremely cold temperatures can damage some sensitive computer and other electronic components. In northern climates, temperatures commonly fall below zero and occasionally dip to minus 40 to 50 degrees. The contraction associated with those extremely low temperatures can congeal Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) and fuel oil, causing heating system failure.
Regardless of the circumstances— if water damage occurs from freezing or other sources, call your local PuroClean office. These professionals will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have professional, well-trained technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire/smoke, mold, and other disasters.
written by
Will Southcombe
Director of Technical Services,
PuroClean Headquarters
Master of Arts,
Master of Business Management,
Water Restoration Technician,
Applied Structural Drying,
Certified Microbial Remediator

Copyright © 2003-2009. All rights reserved in all countries.
Reproduction of the material is prohibited without prior permission.

Category: Flood  | 2 Comments
What you should know about Turkey Fryers
Thursday, October 29th, 2009 | Author: admin

A longtime food favorite in the southern United States, the delicious deep-fried turkey has quickly grown in popularity thanks to celebrity chefs. While some people rave about this tasty creation, UL safety experts are concerned that backyard chefs may be sacrificing safety for good taste. After extensive testing, UL has decided not to certify any turkey fryers with their trusted UL mark.

Here’s why using a deep-fryer can be dangerous:

• Many units easily tip over, spilling the hot oil and resulting in fire.
• If the cooking pot is overfilled, oil may spill out of the unit when the turkey is placed inside. Oil may hit the burner, causing flames to engulf the entire unit.
• Water from frozen turkeys placed into the fryer may react with oil, cause a spill-over effect, resulting in a fire or explosion.
• Marinades also pose a potential hazard. Oil and water don’t mix and may result in fire or explosion.
•With no thermostat controls, the unit also has the potential to overheat to the point of combustion.

If you must use a turkey fryer, here are some tips for safer use:
• Turkey fryers should always be used outdoors a safe distance from buildings and any other material that can burn.
• Never use turkey fryers on wooden decks or in garages.
• Make sure the fryers are used on a flat surface to reduce accidental tipping.
• To avoid oil spillover, do not overfill the fryer.
• Keep an all-purpose fire extinguisher nearby. Never use water to extinguish a grease fire.
•If the fire increases, immediately call 9-1-1.

Category: Smoke, fire  | 2 Comments
Can We Save the Carpet?
Wednesday, October 28th, 2009 | Author: admin

A pipe breaks and now you have wet carpet damage. The insured calls the agent and the process begins. The sooner the policyholder calls the quicker the response and, normally, the lower the total costs of restoration.
Although many issues can be discussed involving water damages, in this article we’re going to concentrate on just one—the carpet. Of all the dollars spent by the insurance industry on property claims, floor covering is, by far, the most expensive category. It stands to reason that if we can save floor coverings affected by water damage the savings, on a national scale, would be significant.
As with any loss, health and safety is of primary importance. The customer should be cautioned about electrical hazards, slip and fall and falling debris, such as drywall or acoustical ceiling tiles.
Quick response is of the essence. The longer the unwanted wet carpet damage is allowed to remain, the more likely the carpeting will experience permanent damage. Because of this, regardless of the hour, the restoration process should begin without delay.

Wet Carpet Damage

Some customers attempt to extract the water themselves. While this can be of some benefit, a shop vacuum, towels and ceiling fans are absolutely no replacement for professional extraction and drying equipment. It is very important to get a professional mitigator on site as soon as possible! The very best opportunity to save carpet (and other items)is to have professionals on site immediately.
The initial stage or phase of the wet carpet damage restoration process includes addressing safety issues and employing “contain and control” procedures. Standing water must be pumped or extracted to prevent migration of water into adjoining areas and sub-surfaces. Professional moisture meters are used to determine the exact location and extent of water damage.
The first step professional restorers take is determining the category of loss: (A) is this a Category-1 loss? (clean watersource;) (B) is this a Category-2 loss? (gray water: with some contamination but not including pathogens or sewage;) or (C) is this a Category-3 loss? (blackwater: involves sewage and known contamination.)
Category-1 is a clean water source and has not come in contact with materials that carry a health concern for the occupants. This would include broken pipes, hot water heaters, tub or sink overflows, etc. professional mitigation specialists can extract water from the carpet and pad and dry them both in place! This dramatically reduces the cost of the claim and helps restore the lives of the policy holders much more quickly.
Category-2 is not a clean water source. This water contains some contamination and has the potential to cause discomfort or sickness if contacted or consumed by humans. Typically this would include washing machine or dishwasher overflows, toilet overflows with no solid matter, broken aquariums, sump pump failures, etc. Because of the additional contamination, this type of loss requires the replacement of the carpet pad, but the carpet itself is normally salvageable. Note: if a Category-2 loss is not treated promptly then the category will escalate to a Category-3 loss (black water.) This is often considered the situation if 48 hours have passed since the loss occurred.
Category-3 is grossly contaminated water containing pathogenic or other harmful agents. Examples of this water include sewage, toilet backflows that originate beyond the toilet trap (regardless of color) all forms of flooding from seawater, rising water from the ground and from rivers or streams, and other water entering the structure from hurricanes, storms or weather-related events.
This water condition is of primary concern when it comes to the health and safety of the occupants. It should be treated seriously because it is serious. Mitigation professionals should be called to deal with this type of loss. Policyholders should not expose themselves to Category-3 water. If, for some reason it is necessary, then they should be reminded to wear gloves, shoe protection and other items to protect themselves.
Carpet is a multi-layered installation with a big sponge under it. Industry standards require that carpet and pad (and anything that is absorbent –textiles, drywall, etc.) that have been contaminated with black water must be bagged and removed from the structure, and disposed of in an appropriate location. Professional restoration companies understand this and operate accordingly.
Every water loss is different. Even with Category-1 andCategory-2 losses, there are varying circumstances that determine whether the carpet can be or should be saved. How old it is, what condition it is in, how it was installed and its construction are all factors that have to be taken into consideration. Mitigation professionals have the training and knowledge to evaluate each situation and to determine the best course of action. They are also trained to communicate well with policyholders, agents and adjusters to insure that everyone understands the process and proper procedures.
So the next time you meet with one of your insureds, take a few moments to explain to them how important rapid response is in the event they were to experience a water loss. Remember, the single most important act in such an event is to call a professional mitigation company to help deal with the loss. Professionals will restore the lives of the policyholders as quickly as possible with maximum cost efficiency and in a trustworthy and understanding manner.
Doug Bowles 4/2007
CCT, CCMT, UFT, WRT, SRT, CRT, RRT
Copyright © 2003-2007. All rights reserved in all countries.
Reproduction of this material is prohibited without prior permission.
This publication provided courtesy of your local PuroClean office.
Offices Independently Owned and Operated.

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WARNING !!!
Do NOT use Chlorine bleach to kill mold or disinfect moldy areas. It is not an effective or long lasting killer of mold and mold spores. Bleach is good only for changing the color of the mold and watering the roots of the mold.
CHLORINE BLEACH IS INEFFECTIVE IN KILLING MOLD FOR THESE REASONS:

(1) The object to killing mold is to kill its “roots”. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s Mold Remediation/ Clean Up Methods guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
(2) Chlorine Bleach does kill bacteria and viruses, but has not been proven effective in killing molds on non-porous surfaces. Bleach itself is 99% water. Water is one of the main contributors of the growth of harmful bacteria and mold. Current situations using bleach re-grew and regenerated mold and bacteria twice the CFU counts than were originally found before bleaching, within a short period of time. Bleach is an old method used for some bacteria and mold. It is the only product people have known for years. The strains now associated within Indoor Air quality issues are resistant to the methods our grandmothers employed to clean-up mold..
(3) What potential mold ‘killing’ power chlorine bleach might have, is diminished significantly as the bleach sits in warehouses, on grocery store shelves or inside your home or business 50% loss in killing power in just the first 90 days inside a never opened jug or container. Chlorine constantly escapes through the plastic walls of its containers.

(4) The ionic structure of bleach prevents Chlorine from penetrating into porous materials such as drywall and wood—it just stays on the outside surface, whereas mold has enzyme roots growing inside the porous construction materials—however, the water content penetrates and actually FEEDS the mold—this is why a few days later you will notice darker, more concentrated mold growing (faster) on the bleached area.
(5) Chlorine Bleach accelerates the deterioration of materials and wears down the fibers of porous materials.

(6) Chlorine Bleach is NOT registered with the EPA as a disinfectant to kill mold. You can verify this important fact for yourself when you are unable to find an EPA registration number for killing mold on the label of any brand of chlorine bleach.
(7) Chlorine bleach off gases for a period of time. Chlorine off gassing can be harmful to humans and animals. It has been known to cause pulmonary embolisms in low resistant, and susceptible people.
(8) Chlorine bleach will evaporate within a short period of time. If the area is not dry when the bleach evaporates, or moisture is still in the contaminated area (humidity, outside air dampness), you could re- start the contamination process immediately and to a greater degree.
(9) Chlorine is a key component of DIOXIN. One of the earliest findings of dioxin’s toxicity in animals was that it caused birth defects in mice at very low levels. This finding led to dioxin being characterized as “one of the most potent teratogenic environmental agents”. The first evidence that dioxin causes cancer came from several animal studies completed in the late 1970’s. The most important of these, published in 1978 by a team of scientists from Dow Chemical Company, led by Richard Kociba, found liver cancer in rats exposed to very low levels of dioxin. This study helped establish dioxin as one of the most potent animal carcinogens ever tested and, together with the finding of birth defects in mice, led to the general statement that dioxin is the “most toxic synthetic chemical known to man.” (Find more information on DIOXIN, by clicking HERE & HERE)
If Not Bleach, What Can I use?

Chlorine Bleach and Mold Clean Up (Let’s Set the Record Straight!)
(reprinted with permission from our friends at Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC)
The Myth.
A myth exists concerning the use and “effectiveness” of chlorine bleach (sodium hypochorite) in the remediation of a mold problem. Mold remediation involves the removal and or clean up and restoration of mold contaminated building materials.
Opposing Views and Confusion.
Chlorine bleach, commonly referred to as laundry bleach, is generally perceived to be an “accepted and answer-all” biocide to abate mold in the remediation processes. Well-intentioned recommendations of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and other federal, state and local agencies are perpetuating that belief. And confusing the issue is one federal agency, the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA), taking an opposing point of view by NOT recommending the use of chlorine bleach as a routine practice in mold remediation.
Does Bleach Really Kill Mold?
Will chlorine bleach kill mold or not—yes or no? The answer is yes, but with a caveat. That answer comes from The Clorox Company, Oakland CA, manufacturer and distributor of Ultra Clorox® Regular Bleach. The company’s correspondence to Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC stated that their Tech Center studies supported by independent laboratories show that “…3/4 cup of Clorox liquid bleach per gallon of water will be effective on hard, non-porous surfaces against… Aspergillus niger and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete’s Foot Fungus)”. Whether or not chlorine bleach kills other molds and fungi, the company did not say. The words “hard, non-porous” surfaces” present the caveat. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s Mold Remediation/ Clean Up Methods guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
Why Chlorine Bleach is NOT Recommended for Mold Remediation.
Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is corrosive and that fact is stated on the product label. Yet the properties of chlorine bleach prevent it from “soaking into” wood-based building materials to get at the deeply embedded mycilia (roots) of mold. The object to killing mold is to kill its “roots”. Reputable mold remediation contractors use appropriate products that effectively disinfect salvageable mold infected wood products. Beware of any mold inspector or mold remediation company that recommends or uses chlorine bleach for mold clean up on wood-based building materials.
Chlorine Bleach Is Active Ingredient in New Mold & Mildew Products.
The appearance of new mold and mildew household products on store shelves is on the rise. Most are dilute solutions of laundry bleach. The labels on these mold and mildew products state that they are for use on (again) hard, non-porous surfaces and not for wood-based materials. Instructions where not to apply the products are varied. A few examples where the branded products should not be applied include wood or painted surfaces, aluminum products, metal (including stainless steel), faucets, marble, natural stone, and, of course, carpeting, fabrics and paper. One commercial mold and mildew stain remover even specifically states it should not be applied to porcelain or metal without immediate rinsing with water and that the product isn’t recommended for use on formica or vinyl.
Caveat Emptor!
Before purchasing a mold and mildew product, read and fully understand the advertised purpose of that product — and correctly follow the use instructions of a purchased product. The labeling claims on these new products can be confusing — some say their product is a mold and mildew remover while another says their product is a mildew stain remover and yet others make similar ‘ambiguous’ claims. Make double sure that the product satisfies your intended need on the surface to which it is to be applied. If your intention is to kill mold, make sure the product does exactly that and follow the directions for usage. Consumers may find that mixing their own diluted bleach solution will achieve the same results as any of the new mold and mildew products — keep in mind that the use of chlorine bleach is not for use on mold infected wood products including wall board, ceiling tiles, wall studs, fabric, paper products, etc.

Conclusion.
Laundry bleach is not an effective mold killing agent for wood-based building materials and NOT EFFECTIVE in the mold remediation process. OSHA is the first federal agency to announce a departure from the use of chlorine bleach in mold remediation. In time, other federal agencies are expected to follow OSHA’s lead. The public should be aware, however, that a chlorine bleach solution IS an effective sanitizing product that kills mold on hard surfaces and neutralizes indoor mold allergens that trigger allergies.
Using bleach can cause serious health problems.
The fumes are very caustic and great care must be taken not to breath it in too much.
It is also very damaging to clothing and carpeting, the human body, and the environment.
THE MOST EFFECTIVE METHOD TO GET RID OF VISIBLE MOLD IS BY REMOVING THE AFFECTED AREA.
NOTE ::: MoldAcrossAmerica does not recommend the use of ozone to address mold or any other indoor air problems

ALL molds reproduce by making “spores.” Mold spores are microscopic and only become visible when individual spores accumulate. According to the United States EPA, these microscopic particles continuously move through indoor and outdoor air. When mold spores find moisture indoors, they may “begin growing and digesting whatever they are growing on in order to survive.” Molds gradually destroy whatever they are growing on.

Reprinted from www.moldacrossamerica.org/notobleach.htm

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